Solo Female Traveler in Morocco for 3 weeks (November 2018)

Many people are wondering about the safety of travelling alone in Morocco, especially for a solo female traveler. So did I! And it gets even worse after reading and hearing so many bad experiences from people who have been there. But the cheap flight from Europe (where I was living), the cheap living cost and the nature beauty has overcome my fear.

I planned my rough itinerary depending on the cheap flight I've found, which is flying in Tangier and out from Casablanca. It turnout to be a great one, because I don't need to go back to the same city with a long bus ride.
Here is my route for the whole 3 weeks:
Tangier (3N) - Chefchaouen (5N) - Fes (2N) - Merzouga (3N) - Todra Gorges (1N) - Ouarzazate (3N) - Marrakech (2N) - Essaouira (3N) - Casablanca (1N)
Keep reading if you want to know the details of my trip! I am also giving a list of useful tips in the end of the article.

Sunset at Sahara Desert

Stand on the Rocky Gorges

TANGIER
Most tourists skipped this town, unless if they are coming by ferry from Spain. I choose it because the flight was very cheap. The airport is far from the town, and the only option is to take a taxi to the town which cost 100 MAD (Nov'18)
For the first two nights, I was staying in Couchsurfing host outside of the town. She showed me around by car and gave me some useful information, especially about the Park Rmilat. You can get there and most of the places in the town by city bus for a very cheap price. Google map showed the bus number, bus stop, but the timetable is not accurate. And then I stayed in The Medina Hostel (119 MAD/night) for the next night. The hostel is pretty easy to find in the Medina. It has nice terrace upstairs, good breakfast too.

Park Rmilat
A lush green forest on the hill, located at the west of the city, it's mostly visited by the local during weekend. I went there by City bus and stop at Foret Rmilat bus stop. Don't miss the yummy Bissara soup and nice overlooking at Mirador de Rmilat.

Foret Rmilat in Tangier

Yummy bissara soup and nice overlooking at Mirador de Rmilat

Tombeaux des Phéniciens
After walking around the medina, I walked to the port and along the coastline. And then I saw the local walked on the rough path up and down the cliff. So I followed them and ended up at Tombeaux des Phéniciens. Do not try it if you scare of height! You can also get to this ancient site by the road uphill from the medina.

Cliff path in Tangier

CHEFCHAOUEN
You can get to this Blue City by bus from Tangier or Fes (45 MAD). CTM bus from Chefchaouen was pretty comfortable, just make sure that you buy the ticket few days ahead. The view along the way going through city of Tetouan was really nice mountainous landscape. I was planning to stay here for 3 nights only, but ended up staying for 5. Lucky my Couchsurfing Host, Laila, was very friendly and flexible. Walking around the Medina (Blue City) is really nice, but make sure that you do it early in the morning before the other tourists go out.
In one cold rainy day, Laila took me to the local hammam which only cost 15 MAD per person as long as you want.

One of the blue corner Chefchaouen

Mosquée Bouzâafar
This is the most common hike to do in Chefchaouen. You can take the short one to the first mosque, or keep going to the second one. The head of the trail start right after the East Gate. We went further to the other mosque, the trail is not clear. But you will see nice mountain view, meet locals and pass by the olives plantation.

View of the Chefchaouen medina(downtown) from Mosquée Bouzâafar

Hike to Jebel El-Kelaa
If you are a bit more fit, do this hike. Most people start and finish at the same spot, but I did as shown on the map below. I basically went around the mountain on the first map by myself. On the way up (picture on the left), I met some locals that were friendly. But I only met other hikers/tourists once I reached the top, and on the way back to the town (picture on the right).

Hiking map to Jebel El-Kelaa in Chefchaouen

Shepherd with his goats and few dogs along the hike to Jebel El-Kelaa 

The view from the top of Jebel El-Kelaa

Waterfalls Akchour
To get here, you need to take the Grand Taxi(50 MAD for return trip) or drive a car if you rent one. Just go to the taxi pool, there will be someone who organize till the taxi is full (everyone pay the share cost to him). Some locals go to the villages around there too, so don't worry if you don't get other people to join to the waterfall. The hike itself is pretty nice, I ended up going with 2 other travelers that I met in Tangier. To get to the big waterfall, it took me about 2 hours slow hike. If you are not fit, you can still enjoy the smaller and closer waterfalls. The path along the river is pretty clear and easy, you don't really need a guide. Watchout for some monkeys!

Grand Akchour Waterfall near Chefchaouen

Edible fruits we found in the hiking path to Akchour Waterfall

FES/FEZ
I went to Fes by CTM bus (75 MAD) again, it is a very busy route, make sure that you reserve few days ahead, you can do it at the ticket center in the medina of Chefchaouen, no need to walk down to the bus station. I wasn't really interested in Fes, but it is on my way to Merzouga Desert. The city busses here are not shown on google map, but the taxis are using their meters. Though sometimes they share the passengers, so make sure that you check what was the meter shown when you jump in.
I stayed at Downtown Hostel Fes(90 MAD/night), which has a pretty good location. It's in the beginning of the most complicated maze of Fes Medina. Their breakfast was small, but the hot shower works well, and they provide extra blanket by request.

I'm not joking, the medina in Fes is really complicated, even with mobile offline maps (Maps.me). You will easily get confused and even lost. The worst is, the locals using this opportunity to scam or making you buying their stuff. They will be nice at first, but pushy in the end. Especially at the tannery and carpet shops. I wouldn't recommend to walk it in the evening.

Places to see like the oldest university, blue gate, and the tannery are inside the medina. After that you can get up to the ruin of Bab Guissa (and climb the fortress) and then continue to Borj Nord. The next day I went to buy bus ticket Supratour to go to Merzouga in the evening. The gate of the Royal Palace is also nice to see, but you cannot enter it.

The famous tannery in Fes, Morocco

The golden gate of Royal Palace in Fes, Morocco

The view of Bab Guissa and Fes medina, from Borj Nord

MERZOUGA Desert
The only public transport from Fes to Merzouga is Supratour bus (200 MAD) that start at 9pm and arrive at 6am. The CTM bus only go as south as Errachidia. I have booked an accommodation and they promised to pick me up at the bus stop. But since the bus arrived earlier, I decided to walk to the guest house in the dark, with the sky full of stars. It was amazing!
I stayed at Auberge Camping La Liberte(80 MAD/night), the price was really cheap for a private room with bathroom inside, right besides the desert and includes breakfast. I have been staying in hostels and Couchsurfing hosts since arrived in Morocco, so this was a relieved. You can order food, and they will cook it fresh for you. Otherwise you can walk to where the bus stop, there are restaurants to eat.

I didn't do the desert tour, camping, ride camels like others do. First the price is expensive, and I didn't know anyone fun to do it with. Instead of that, I explore the desert by myself during the daytime. If you are fit, climb up to the top of Erg Chebbi, the highest sand dune in Merzouga.

Erg Chebbi, the highest sand dune in Merzouga, Morocco

Sunset view from Erg Chebbi sand dune, Merzouga, Morocco

TODRA GORGES
I was going to skip this because the busses only stop at Tinghir, and then I needed to get a taxi to Todra. But luckily I met a German traveler that was staying at the same place as me in Merzouga. He needed company to talk to on his way while driving the car that he rent. He is also heading toward Ouarzazate and stop by Todra Gorges, so it was perfect for me.
We started to drive just after breakfast, stop several times to take pictures on the way, and arrived in Tinghir early afternoon. After check-in at Dounia Hostel(70 MAD/night) and eat lunch, we went for a walk to the gorges which is 10 minutes away. And the view was amazing! It was really quiet in the afternoon after rain. But avoid the noon, because most tourist will be here with the tour companies.
The next day we drove up through this Gorgeous Gorges, continue to the smaller gorges and all the way up to the mountain till we arrived at small village called Agoudal. Then we drove back down through Todra, Tinghir and head to Dades Gorges.

The river and road that going through the whole Todra Gorges

Snowy Atlas Mountain road in Morocco

Nice view at Tinghir, on the way to Todra Gorges

Dades Gorges
After seeing the amazing Todra Gorges, Dades seems less interesting to me. Because you don't really being in between the towering gorges. But the view along the way was really nice. I guess if you visit this place and then go to Todra Gorges will be a better order.

The view on the way to the Dades Gorges

OUARZAZATE
We arrived in Ouarzazate in the evening, where I met my Couchsurfing host Sara, to stay with her family for the next few days. They shower me with foods, literally since I arrived till leaving. I have heard a lot that Moroccan family feed their guest generously.
The name of this city means the gate of the desert, it's almost flat and pretty hot. There is not much to see in the town besides the Taourirt Kasbah and the Atlas Studio. But the city is generally safe even in the evening.
The next day we went to Aït Benhaddou, which is 30 minutes driving from Ouarzazate. I am a fan of Game of Thrones, so for me it was an amazing feeling to be in one of their real filming location. The entire village made of mud, the colorful landscape around them, and the snowy Atlas Mountain in a distance.
Sara also took me to a local hammam, it was similar as the one in Chefchaouen. I left on the 4th day by bus to Marrakech(70 MAD), through the windy road of Atlas Mountain.

Aït Benhaddou mud village

I was too happy to be at GOT filming location

MARRAKESH
People that I met along the trip have warned me about how chaotic is this city, but it's on my way so I give it a try. I took a taxi from the bus station to a point near the hostel that I've booked. Kasbah Red Castle Hostel (70 MAD/night) is huge, the most hectic hostel that I have ever stayed. My room is a dorm consist of 11 beds, which is divided by 4 bunk beds. They have plenty of space on the top floor to hangout, but some guests were loud till 2am.
There is nothing special that I can recommend here, there are many other blogs that mention it already. I would say just walk around and feel the 'vibes'. And of course be careful of the people in the busy places. I find the the entrance fee of the El Badii Palace for 70 MAD is way too much for ruins site.

El Badii Palace in Marrakesh

Storks on the ruins of El Badii palace in Marakesh

ESSAOUIRA
I took the CTM bus from Marrakech to Essaouira (80 MAD), which requires taxi to and from their bus station (10 MAD). I was recommended to stay at Seagull Hostel (70 MAD/night) by the owner of Dounia Hostel at Todra, and it wasn't a bad recommendation. They just took over the hostel and trying to improve it. The staff are really friendly and they shared foods with me. Located in the medina and easy to find.
Essaouira is one of my favorite city in Morocco, somehow I feel safe even walking in the narrow alley in the dark. Their famous City Wall or Bab Skala is a must to visit! I went on my first day at sunset time, and the view was amazing. But it was too crowded! Well this is another Game of Thrones filming location, so expect the crowd. They next day I went early enough (around 9am) and found no one there. The town is really calm in the morning. Another spot to see is the Citadel in the afternoon, busy fishermens, hundreds of seagulls flying around.
The next day I went to the CTM bus to buy a ticket to Casablanca (150 MAD). Then I was curious to explore the forest that I saw from the bus when we were approaching from Marrakesh. It's a Dune Forest, with some lagoon in it. But there is fence in between the forest and the city, you can enter from the gate that is located in this coordinate: 31.504695, -9.754372.

The city wall of Essaouira 

Another side of Essaouira City Wall

The dune forest of Essaouira

CASABLANCA
It was sad to leave Essaouira, but I have to catch my flight, so I need to be in Casablanca. Bus ride was a bit boring, so was the city. I walked from the CTM bus stop in the town, to Youth Hostel Casablanca International (12 Euro/night) in the medina. I choose it because of the location, which is close to the train station where I can go to the airport, and not too much inside the medina maze. The building is a bit creepy, dirty squat toilet, cold shower. Breakfast was small but better than nothing. I booked the private room because I want to make sure I get a good sleep before my flight in the morning.
The only site to visit is the huge Hassan II Mosque, which in walking distance from the hostel. It is beautiful in sunset time, despite of hundreds other people trying to take pictures in my picture. But going back in the dark wasn't a pleasant experience. I just feels like people are watching me, so I walked as fast as possible in the crowd, pretending to know the way. Good thing I didn't get lost and manage to grab some food for dinner on my way. Train at Casa Port to the airport was smooth, even though it departed late. Much cheaper than getting a taxi.

Hasan II Mosque in Casablanca

Important things to know:
- Beware of your belongings, I always wear jacket and put my money, passport and phone in the inner pocket. My daypack is only for water, snacks and notebook. Especially in the medina maze, and or in the dark.
- Dress up properly! Headscarf wasn't necessary for lady, but I wouldn't recommend leggings, shorts, and non-sleeve shirt.
- Don't accept kindness from stranger, they will end up asking for tips or fee. Even kids did that to me.
- Choose the airport where you arrive and depart carefully to have a better trip plan. Since the distance between cities are far (pretty long bus/car ride).
- Public transports in between big cities are good and reliable. Choose either CTM or Supratour. But renting a car is probably the best way to see the countryside, if you have the money or travel partner to share it with.